Featured Article: Biyan Spring Summer 2017

Entering the 34th year of his dedication in fashion industry, one of Indonesia’s fashion maestros, Biyan Wanaatmaja, presented the new Women’s Wear Spring/Summer 2017 Collection of his main line, BIYAN. The highly-anticipated show was held at Segara Hall, The Dharmawangsa Jakarta, on June 1st 2016, within philosophic idea called “Benang Merah“.

Benang Merah brings a philosophy of harmonic diversity. Biyan defines ‘diversity’ as the variation of many components which results on enthusiasm for the intermixture, in which every composition is connected in a harmony. “There is an evolution in each phase of every person’s life, that indirectly forms their character”, said Biyan about Benang Merah. This collection born with many factors built the idea: accumulation of history, influences medias, figurations, colors, textures and sounds that are recorded in his memory, including the archives of his previous collections.

In the beginning of the show, audiences were stimulated by a heavenly Goddess-like back sound, with gradually lighten runway. The whole space of Segara hall was all dominated by red ambiance. Oriental-styled tall pillars enliven the red runway. Benang Merah delivers a complexity in mood, transition and emotions. In personified description, the show portrays a lady who has strongly divided characters at once, yet stands independently with her principals, and the most importantly, she has her own taste. The transition and layering of fashion show’s back sounds reflected Biyan‘s idea of harmony very perfectly. At the beginning, audience could feel mysterious beauty, which slowly faded and replaced with elegant and contemporary music that reminds of Javanese aristocrat era. The latter music compositions brought the feel of graceful-melancholic seduction, which slowly turned to be dynamic with a bit sense of humor. The models on the runway were sporting sleek bun with gold hairpiece and minimal make up so that the beauty looks didn’t overpowered the collection.

Distinguished from many fashion shows in which audiences can see some stated moods from different sequences, Benang Merah does not seem to have any part or sequences. It showcased undefined climax and anticlimax; there is no mood stratification. The experience received by audiences might be complicated. Benang Merah constructed a vivid imagination and memory collage of Biyan. The collection itself is rich, in terms of inspirations. However, this complicated complexity was nicely presented, and offers a generalizable conclusion: it is intricate, glamorous, elegant and very sophisticated.

BIYAN Spring/Summer 2017 Collection involves contrast colors and full of textures. The color palette includes shades of red, coral, indigo blue, fresh mint and olive, which are mixed with off white, beige, gold, silver and black. Biyan created this collection through an intense process and experiments, yet still drew coherency through silhouettes, volumes and materials, with an exploration towards Gujarat-originated Chintz fabric. Biyan combined some lavish materials such as lame jacquard with lace textures, with basic materials like denim and linen. He put some deconstructive spirits within raw edges and embroidery archive-inspired patchworks. Metal emboss, handcrafted brass, mineral stones, caved bones, glass and crystal beads, Swarovski, freshwater pearl, and lace ribbon are some of many elements he uses to create unique and intricate wearable looks.

BIYAN Spring/Summer 2017 Collection is a contrast in harmony, with assimilated physical and philosophical elements. Despite of its complexity which may be difficult to digest, it is more than just a collection. It is a form of treasure, which represents years of memories, involving multiple factors and elements. It is worth an attention.

See the complete runway photos and attendees (such as actresses Tara Basro and Adinia Wirasti) on our Facebook Fanpage. You can also see the collection in motion on our newly launched Youtube channel, and don’t forget to subscriber for more exclusive videos!

All photos are courtesy of art8amby, photographed by Agra Suseno.

Please do not reproduce the content from this album in its entirety without permission. Images must be accompanied by a working link to this album and must be mentioning @art8amby and @agrasuseno.

Featured Article: Biyan Spring Summer 2016

Biyan Wanaatmadja explored multiple emotions, such as surreal and magical, that comes within a dream for a dainty, delicate Spring Summer 2016 collection aptly named “Dream” that was presented last Thursday, June 11th 2015 at The Dharmawangsa Hotel, Jakarta.

He created a beautifully serene collection with his signature luxurious, feminine sensibility and relaxed yet dynamic sophistication. He combined the inspirations from Indonesia‘s own kebaya detailing, old children storybook and tiles pattern that seen at old churches and buildings with intricate workmanship such as lattice embroidery, eyelet, macrame, and chunky embellishments and embroideries.

The dreamy color palette is a mixture of neutral and muted colors like white, ivory, beige, grey, celadon, tile blue and powder blue. For this collection, Biyan merged heavy and light materials (glittered tulle, printed silk organza, linen, silk georgette, taffeta, and denim) with romantic yet whimsical silhouettes (long dresses, A-line skirt, palazzo pants and loose coats and jackets). Majestic white tree in the center of the runway, romantic sleek bun and neutral make up with a stroke of white on one side of the face completed the presentation.

Browse through our Facebook fanpage and let the beautiful collection speaks for itself.

Read our review of his past collections “Seruni“, “The Radiance Postcard” and “Foliage” by clicking the links.

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All images are courtesy of Yannis Yereoudakis for art8amby.

Featured Article: Biyan Spring Summer 2015

In Asia, Seruni (in Bahasa Indonesia) or Chrysanthemum is often believed as the symbol of life and immortality. Based on that spirit, prominent Indonesian fashion designer Biyan Wanaatmadja presented his latest collection on Tuesday evening, June 17th 2014 at Hotel Mulia Senayan, Jakarta which was inspired from the fusion of Japanese art and culture and the tribal nuance of Sumba-Indonesia.

On the first sequence, silk flowing dresses in soft muted colors like cloudy blue, blush pink and mint green with chrysanthemum and paintings-like prints were dominating the runway. The serene feeling was completed with the occasional crane and floral appliqué. We love how Biyan perceives his women as feminine, pure/innocent, stylish and at the same time they are also strong, cool, open minded and both equally balance and beautiful.

Darker colour palette like black, midnight blue and aubergine purple took over the second sequence, where you can drooling over those heavily embellished top and jacket/coat with droopy shoulder. The intricately authentic Indonesian traditional Sumba figurative inspired ikat were seen in this sequence. Tribal essence on some of the beading details gave a nice surprise in the collection. The trapeze and A-line silhouettes made recurring appearances with various placements of ruffles (hemline, neckline and sleeve).

Other than the crane appliqué and floral print, the Japanese inspirations were elaborated even more in the form of loose shapes, kimono collar, and Samurai-inspired pants. Not to mention the post-runway-show-selfie-backdrop-ready bamboo forest where the models came out to strutting down the runway. We were excited when we see his favourite models such as Hege Wollan (the show opener), Paula Verhoeven, Izabel Jahja, Laura Basuki and Nayla Alatas walked the runway in sky-high wedges on wooden floor with sleek Samurai chignon. White highlights adorned models’ eyelids and some of them wearing beautiful handmade Japanese-inspired necklaces made out of horns, feathers, shells, cowries, crystals and semi-precious stones.

Gorgeous sheer evening dresses with divine details closed the final sequence of the evening. If you look closely, you will appreciate the hard-work and craftsmanship from those who created the beautiful dresses. The magnificent embroideries and embellishments were superb! The juxtaposition of bright-light and dark-intense, pure and strong, feminine and masculine in Seruni collection were a total feast to the eye.

Read our review of his last year’s collection “The Radiance Postcard” and 2013 “Foliage” collection by clicking the links. Visit our Facebook page to view MORE runway images of “Seruni“.

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All images are courtesy of art8amby.

Featured Article: Biyan Spring Summer 2014

Four huge “Garudas” placed strategically and majestically at the beginning of the runway, as a hint that for his latest collection, Biyan Wanaatmadja is taking inspiration from his homeland, Indonesia.

He used authentic Indonesian traditional textile and craft (batik, songket, tikar and basketry), as prints on light silk. He twisted the keraton inspired coats and jackets by adding his signature glamour touch in the use of intricate embroideries, beads and embellishments, which exudes the refined sophistication feeling. Some kebayas were modified in different silhouettes and volume, not to mentioned sarong inspired skirts. The juxtaposition between masculine and feminine were inevitable as some lace dresses were paired with cigarette pants. The use of delicate lace were interesting yet refreshing because Biyan usually used organza, tafetta, and tulle (which also appeared this time). Loose shapes is back on the runway, along with the effortless billowy sleeves.

Biyan doesn’t need bright and bold colors to celebrate his 30 radiant years in fashion. He mostly used down to earth and muted colors such as washed white, taupe grey, sogan brown, pumpkin brown and dusty pastels (chalk blue, celadon, peach, lilac tint, pale khaki). Even the lighting was sephia to make it more intimate yet serene. He also presented the ever lasting black and elegant midnight blue on the runway of his fashion show at Hotel Mulia Senayan on Wednesday, June 05th 2013.

Young model Hege Martine Wollan landed the honor to opened the show, while Paula Verhoeven closed. Some Indonesian runway veteran such as Laura Basuki, Izabel Jahja, and Wiwied also walked the show that night sporting similar neutral make up with sequined lids and sleek chignon like other models. He even casted supermodel Fahrani Pawaka Empel! What a lovely surprise for the excited guests.

“The Radiance Postcard” suits perfectly as the collection’s name because it reflects his creativity journey for the past three decades. He translated his memories diversity to this elegant yet modern collection with traditional twist. We are wishing Biyan all the very best for his upcoming collections and we are looking forward to see these dresses, coats and jackets on the displays of Bergdorf Goodman, Blake, Joyce, Club 21, Saks Fifth Avenue Dubai, and of course Net-A-Porter.

Read our review of his last year’s collection “Foliage” here, and click here to view MORE runway images of “The Radiance Postcard“.

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All images are courtesy of art8amby.

Featured Article: MET Gala 2013 Red Carpet

From Kristen Stewart’s bordeaux lace jumpsuit by Stella McCartney, to Anne Hathaway’s vintage Valentino gown (and her new platinum blonde hair!). From Jennifer Lawrence’s strapless Christian Dior Couture dress, to Rooney Mara’s white goth Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci dress, click here to check out the complete red carpet coverage from the highly anticipated event in fashion world, The 2013 MET Costume Institute Gala, PUNK: From Chaos to Couture that was held on Monday evening, May 06th 2013 in New York City.

Don’t forget to leave comments and pick your favourite looks from the fabulous event!

Above images: Anne Hathaway in Valentino, Cameron Diaz in Stella McCartney, and Carey Mulligan in Balenciaga.

Below images: Coco Rocha in Emanuel Ungaro by Fausto Puglisi, Constance Jablonski in Wes Gordon, Jennifer Lawrence in Christian Dior Couture, Kristen Stewart in Stella McCartney, Joan Smalls in Tom Ford with the designer, Taylor Swift in J. Mendel, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley in Gucci, Rooney Mara in Givenchy Couture by Riccardo Tisci, Miley Cyrus in Marc Jacobs, and Gisele Bundchen in Anthony Vaccarello.

Images via Style Bistro, RFCA, Just Jared, Fashionologie,and Yahoo!.

Featured Article: IKAT Indonesia by Didiet Maulana 2013-2014

2013 has been a busy year so far for Didiet Maulana. He recently showed the first ever bridal line, released the 2013 campaign for his Mentari collection, and we heard that he’s going to launch a jewelry line later this year.

Last week, Didiet Maulana presented “Romansa Gala”, a 35-look latest collection from his growing IKAT Indonesia label in conjunction with the launch of the new Samsung Galaxy S4 at Grand Hyatt Jakarta‘s Ballroom. Consistent with the use of Indonesia’s traditionally exquisite fabrics, he paired the conventional look with some conservative shape like below-the-knees sheath dress and adding some chic 1920s flapper details such as long pearl necklaces, headpiece and bias cut shapes. Soft color palettes like peach, olive green and pink dominated the rather casual first sequence. For evening choices, IKAT Indonesia offered luxe satin suits in dark green for men (which we lusting over it!) with ikat details on the shawl or long jacket, and elegant black dresses with sparkly sequins scattered all over.

Last but not least, we’d like to congratulate Didiet Maulana on his new collection and we are looking forward to see more from him in the future!

You can enjoy the complete runway images on our Facebook fanpage, here.

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Featured Article: Denny Wirawan Bride 2013

Denny Wirawan presented his very first bridal line during Grand Hyatt Jakarta Wedding Fair last Saturday, April 13th 2013 at the hotel’s ballroom. The collection was named “Un Amore” and has more than 30 looks, including 7 pastel and metallic menswear suits. The current face of LT Pro and top catwalker, Katya Talanova landed the honor to opened the fashion show in a bold red flirty dress with flower petals. Flower appliqué appeared throughout the feminine yet elegant collection. Scattered below the waistline, on the shoulder, bust area, and on the train of a white dress worn by Ilmira Usmanova.

The 45 year old designer loved flower so much (as it fits the Un Amore themed very well) he even used it in forms of embroideries detailing, lace fabrics and damask patterns. Some of the beautiful headpiece by Oscar Daniel also comes with feminine flower details, while other headpiece was made from sparkly materials, metals, satin ribbons and feathers. The fun playful dresses in first sequence were very cocktail party appropriate with the use of pretty colors like teal, soft yellow, bronze, and bold red as primary color or just accent. Other details he used and featured in the second sequence were pearls, acrylic-like paillettes on the dress straps, and knotted belt–which is quite similar from his Bali Java collection showed recently at Indonesia Fashion Week.

Denny Wirawan gave lots of option for his various types of brides-to-be in the forms of svelte cheongsam, intricate evening dresses, mermaid gowns, kebayas, and ballgown shaped wedding dress (worn by Simona in the finale). This might be his first attempt to embrace the exciting bridal market, but we are pretty sure it won’t be his last. Check out the complete runway looks on our Facebook fanpage, here.

Please do not reproduce any images without permission. All images are courtesy of art8amby.

Featured Article: Senayan City Fashion Nation 2013 Opening Event

The annually held Senayan City Fashion Nation has reached its seventh edition this year and it’s bigger than ever! Last night, the opening event was held at the shopping centre’s atrium with a fashion show from Ari Seputra, Rusly Tjohnardi and Mel Ahyar. In the glamorous event, Senayan City also proudly announced that the prominent shopping centre will be the new home for Jakarta Fashion Week that will be held later this October.

Violinist Mayla Fayza serenading the guests as she opened the event in a Rusly Tjohnardi dress (she also closed the finale wearing a dress from Mel Ahyar) and riding the new Audi to the elegant black and gold stage. After she performed, the host of the evening, the ever lovely Nadya Hutagalung, come up and greets the excited guests wearing a gorgeous beaded strapless dress from Biyan. The top 3 finalists from the first cycle of Asia’s Next Top Model came to the stage afterwards to present The Style Maker Awards to model Paula Verhoeven, singer Andien, socialite Fitria Yusuf, and actor Rio Dewanto respectively as the recipient from each category.

Ari Seputra was the first designer to present the collection. Advina Ratnaningsih opened his fashion show in a sleeveless wrap dress with white hemline. The collection used the mostly the color of the season, black and white. Ari Seputra combined it with mullet shapes, loose yet edgy fittings and sporty details. Rusly Tjohnardi’s latest dresses and gown were mostly made out of tulle with his soft muted colors with a dash of blue, gold and green. Looks like that he was inspired by the Indian princess as the models strutting the catwalk (Antie Damayanti opened) in intricate headpiece that surprisingly fits the collection. Last but not least on the opening event of Fashion Nation we got Mel Ahyar. With her signature column silhouette, she managed to give interesting variety of long dresses with the used of fabrics including taffeta, sheer panels, textured fabrics, tulle and lace as soon as Sarah Azka walked the runway as first face.

We leave you with some of the runway images, special pics of Asia’s Next Top Model finalists and winner— the humble Stephanie Retuya from Philippines, the bubbly Kate Ma from Taiwan, the elegant Jessica Amornkuldilok from Thailand, and the leggy Sofia Wakabayashi from Japan (who’s represented by Perfect 10 Management in Jakarta)—and model off duty style with Ayu Faradilla and Dea Nabila. Browse through our Facebook fanpage for MORE exclusive images from the fabulous event!

The Seventh Edition of Fashion Nation will be held until April 21st 2013 at Senayan City, Jakarta, Indonesia.

Senayan City Fashion Nation 2013 campaign image courtesy of Sapto Djojokartiko.

Please do not reproduce any images without permission. The images are all courtesy of art8amby.

Featured Article: Ikat Indonesia Bridal Collection 2013

The talented Didiet Maulana, with his growing Ikat Indonesia label, is branching out to the bridal wear with the brand’s first ever bridal collection Svarna (means gold coins) that was presented on Saturday, February 16th 2013, at The Ballroom Four Seasons Hotel, Jakarta.

He combined the traditional Palembang’s woven fabrics with lavish gold threads with international shapes of wedding gowns such as ballgown, strapless dress with long tulle train, peplum dress with tiered train, cheongsam, and halterneck. Even the menswear attire were using the similar fabrics which we definitely drooling over.

For the traditionally conservative brides, Didiet Maulana showcased a number of modified kebayas in rich, exquisite embroideries and paired it with beautiful shawls. As real life couple Dominique Agisca Diyose and Marshall Sastra opened and closed the show (with a special runway appearance from adorably cute flower girl), we couldn’t help but think that they two should get married in the beautiful pieces from the designer, right away.

Browse through our Facebook fanpage for the complete runway images from the fashion show, and a glimpse of the high-profile guests whose attending such as Mrs. Widi Wardhana, Mr. Ronald Liem (the publisher of DestinAsian, DaMan, Prestige Magazine and Joy Indonesia), Mrs. Miranda Tobing (the editor in chief of Herworld Brides Indonesia), and Miss Indonesia Universe 2013, Whulandary Herman (pictured below).

Please do not reproduce any images without permission. All images are courtesy of art8amby.

Featured Article: Indonesia Fashion Week 2013 – Bali Java by Denny Wirawan

You know you’re in for treat when the first model out on the runway wearing a unique headpiece. Top Indonesian model Kelly Tandiono was the first girl sent out by Denny Wirawan, wearing a metallic sequined shorts, grey top, cropped jacket with beads, a heel-less platform shoes and a headpiece that looks like rice stems/rice straws.

Next girl out wearing a cropped pants, embroidered white shirt, and a cropped jacket made from Palembang’s songket fabric (he mentioned that some of the fabrics made from pineapple fiber), with similar color palettes as Kelly. The theme was “Poetique de Savane” in which the designer translated his inspiration, a dry African savanna, into a feminine, beautiful, yet strong collection with earthy and soft color tones such as brown, taupe, gold, grey, bronze, with a stroke of citrine. He wowed the audience at Jakarta Convention Center last week during Indonesia Fashion Week 2013, with 20 looks that exquisitely wearable yet still radiates traditional nuance.

Those Oscar Daniel‘s intricately natural headpieces getting more dramatic towards the end of the fashion show, where luxe evening wear (the kimono inspired dresses stole our attention) with long tulle trains were shown by Paula Verhoeven and fellow catwalkers.
It’s a true feast for the eyes, Mr. Denny Wirawan.

Browse through our Facebook fanpage, here to view the complete runway looks from Bali Java.

You can also read our previously posted reviews from Indonesia Fashion Week 2013: Sofie, Melinda Looi Couture, Rudy Chandra, Jeanny Ang Couture, and Kraton by Auguste Soesastro.

Please do not reproduce any images without permission. All images are courtesy of art8amby.