Four huge “Garudas” placed strategically and majestically at the beginning of the runway, as a hint that for his latest collection, Biyan Wanaatmadja is taking inspiration from his homeland, Indonesia.
He used authentic Indonesian traditional textile and craft (batik, songket, tikar and basketry), as prints on light silk. He twisted the keraton inspired coats and jackets by adding his signature glamour touch in the use of intricate embroideries, beads and embellishments, which exudes the refined sophistication feeling. Some kebayas were modified in different silhouettes and volume, not to mentioned sarong inspired skirts. The juxtaposition between masculine and feminine were inevitable as some lace dresses were paired with cigarette pants. The use of delicate lace were interesting yet refreshing because Biyan usually used organza, tafetta, and tulle (which also appeared this time). Loose shapes is back on the runway, along with the effortless billowy sleeves.
Biyan doesn’t need bright and bold colors to celebrate his 30 radiant years in fashion. He mostly used down to earth and muted colors such as washed white, taupe grey, sogan brown, pumpkin brown and dusty pastels (chalk blue, celadon, peach, lilac tint, pale khaki). Even the lighting was sephia to make it more intimate yet serene. He also presented the ever lasting black and elegant midnight blue on the runway of his fashion show at Hotel Mulia Senayan on Wednesday, June 05th 2013.
Young model Hege Martine Wollan landed the honor to opened the show, while Paula Verhoeven closed. Some Indonesian runway veteran such as Laura Basuki, Izabel Jahja, and Wiwied also walked the show that night sporting similar neutral make up with sequined lids and sleek chignon like other models. He even casted supermodel Fahrani Pawaka Empel! What a lovely surprise for the excited guests.
“The Radiance Postcard” suits perfectly as the collection’s name because it reflects his creativity journey for the past three decades. He translated his memories diversity to this elegant yet modern collection with traditional twist. We are wishing Biyan all the very best for his upcoming collections and we are looking forward to see these dresses, coats and jackets on the displays of Bergdorf Goodman, Blake, Joyce, Club 21, Saks Fifth Avenue Dubai, and of course Net-A-Porter.
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All images are courtesy of art8amby.