Featured Article: Biyan Spring Summer 2014

Four huge “Garudas” placed strategically and majestically at the beginning of the runway, as a hint that for his latest collection, Biyan Wanaatmadja is taking inspiration from his homeland, Indonesia.

He used authentic Indonesian traditional textile and craft (batik, songket, tikar and basketry), as prints on light silk. He twisted the keraton inspired coats and jackets by adding his signature glamour touch in the use of intricate embroideries, beads and embellishments, which exudes the refined sophistication feeling. Some kebayas were modified in different silhouettes and volume, not to mentioned sarong inspired skirts. The juxtaposition between masculine and feminine were inevitable as some lace dresses were paired with cigarette pants. The use of delicate lace were interesting yet refreshing because Biyan usually used organza, tafetta, and tulle (which also appeared this time). Loose shapes is back on the runway, along with the effortless billowy sleeves.

Biyan doesn’t need bright and bold colors to celebrate his 30 radiant years in fashion. He mostly used down to earth and muted colors such as washed white, taupe grey, sogan brown, pumpkin brown and dusty pastels (chalk blue, celadon, peach, lilac tint, pale khaki). Even the lighting was sephia to make it more intimate yet serene. He also presented the ever lasting black and elegant midnight blue on the runway of his fashion show at Hotel Mulia Senayan on Wednesday, June 05th 2013.

Young model Hege Martine Wollan landed the honor to opened the show, while Paula Verhoeven closed. Some Indonesian runway veteran such as Laura Basuki, Izabel Jahja, and Wiwied also walked the show that night sporting similar neutral make up with sequined lids and sleek chignon like other models. He even casted supermodel Fahrani Pawaka Empel! What a lovely surprise for the excited guests.

The Radiance Postcard” suits perfectly as the collection’s name because it reflects his creativity journey for the past three decades. He translated his memories diversity to this elegant yet modern collection with traditional twist. We are wishing Biyan all the very best for his upcoming collections and we are looking forward to see these dresses, coats and jackets on the displays of Bergdorf Goodman, Blake, Joyce, Club 21, Saks Fifth Avenue Dubai, and of course Net-A-Porter.

Read our review of his last year’s collection “Foliagehere, and click here to view MORE runway images of “The Radiance Postcard“.

Please do not reproduce the images without permission. Images must be accompanied by a working link to this post.

All images are courtesy of art8amby.

3 responses to “Featured Article: Biyan Spring Summer 2014

  • Glenn van Nijevelt

    This is the most important fashion celebration in Jakarta in 2013. BIYAN.
    His vision, craftmanship and creativity are way above the average South-east-Asian fashion designer. His designs are always architecturally correct, giving do much respect to the curve of women’ body. The embellishment on his pieces is just the icing of the cakes. Biyan shows that no good design can be had without 3 ancient dictum of architecture: Venustas, Firmitas and Utilitas (Beauty, strength and function).
    His semi couture collections are always meticulously planned and executed. And the result is always breathtaking!
    BIYAN lives among the giants of fashion designers, be it contemporary or the ones from past century. His name will be remembered together with the likes of Paul Poiret, Fortuny, Balenciaga, Lanvin and, the ones from 21st century like the late Alexander McQueen and John Galliano.
    The fact that he uses veteran models with strong branding power like Wiwied, who is 42 and a mother of three now, also shows his understanding of the importance of continuity. Because if anyone can afford his semi-couture collections, most likely she will be around 30 and 50 years old and very likely they grew up with Wiwied and other senior models. Not unlike another branding moves done for Bally, YSL and Louis V that still include Christy Turlington, Helena Christensen and Naomi in their 2012 and 2013 campaigns.

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    […] magazine covers, editorials and ad campaigns. She walked for prominent Indonesian designers such as Biyan, Sapto Djojokartiko, Denny Wirawan, and Tex Saverio to name a few. The girl who was born in […]

  • Featured Article: Biyan Spring Summer 2015 | Art8amby's Blog

    […] our review of his last year’s collection “The Radiance Postcard” and 2013 “Foliage” collection by clicking the links. Visit our Facebook page to view […]

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