Category Archives: Runway

Featured Article: Biyan Spring Summer 2017


Entering the 34th year of his dedication in fashion industry, one of Indonesia’s fashion maestros, Biyan Wanaatmaja, presented the new Women’s Wear Spring/Summer 2017 Collection of his main line, BIYAN. The highly-anticipated show was held at Segara Hall, The Dharmawangsa Jakarta, on June 1st 2016, within philosophic idea called “Benang Merah“.

Benang Merah brings a philosophy of harmonic diversity. Biyan defines ‘diversity’ as the variation of many components which results on enthusiasm for the intermixture, in which every composition is connected in a harmony. “There is an evolution in each phase of every person’s life, that indirectly forms their character”, said Biyan about Benang Merah. This collection born with many factors built the idea: accumulation of history, influences medias, figurations, colors, textures and sounds that are recorded in his memory, including the archives of his previous collections.



In the beginning of the show, audiences were stimulated by a heavenly Goddess-like back sound, with gradually lighten runway. The whole space of Segara hall was all dominated by red ambiance. Oriental-styled tall pillars enliven the red runway. Benang Merah delivers a complexity in mood, transition and emotions. In personified description, the show portrays a lady who has strongly divided characters at once, yet stands independently with her principals, and the most importantly, she has her own taste. The transition and layering of fashion show’s back sounds reflected Biyan‘s idea of harmony very perfectly. At the beginning, audience could feel mysterious beauty, which slowly faded and replaced with elegant and contemporary music that reminds of Javanese aristocrat era. The latter music compositions brought the feel of graceful-melancholic seduction, which slowly turned to be dynamic with a bit sense of humor. The models on the runway were sporting sleek bun with gold hairpiece and minimal make up so that the beauty looks didn’t overpowered the collection.

Distinguished from many fashion shows in which audiences can see some stated moods from different sequences, Benang Merah does not seem to have any part or sequences. It showcased undefined climax and anticlimax; there is no mood stratification. The experience received by audiences might be complicated. Benang Merah constructed a vivid imagination and memory collage of Biyan. The collection itself is rich, in terms of inspirations. However, this complicated complexity was nicely presented, and offers a generalizable conclusion: it is intricate, glamorous, elegant and very sophisticated.



BIYAN Spring/Summer 2017 Collection involves contrast colors and full of textures. The color palette includes shades of red, coral, indigo blue, fresh mint and olive, which are mixed with off white, beige, gold, silver and black. Biyan created this collection through an intense process and experiments, yet still drew coherency through silhouettes, volumes and materials, with an exploration towards Gujarat-originated Chintz fabric. Biyan combined some lavish materials such as lame jacquard with lace textures, with basic materials like denim and linen. He put some deconstructive spirits within raw edges and embroidery archive-inspired patchworks. Metal emboss, handcrafted brass, mineral stones, caved bones, glass and crystal beads, Swarovski, freshwater pearl, and lace ribbon are some of many elements he uses to create unique and intricate wearable looks.

BIYAN Spring/Summer 2017 Collection is a contrast in harmony, with assimilated physical and philosophical elements. Despite of its complexity which may be difficult to digest, it is more than just a collection. It is a form of treasure, which represents years of memories, involving multiple factors and elements. It is worth an attention.



See the complete runway photos and attendees (such as actresses Tara Basro and Adinia Wirasti) on our Facebook Fanpage. You can also see the collection in motion on our newly launched Youtube channel, and don’t forget to subscriber for more exclusive videos!

All photos are courtesy of art8amby, photographed by Agra Suseno.

Please do not reproduce the content from this album in its entirety without permission. Images must be accompanied by a working link to this album and must be mentioning @art8amby and @agrasuseno.



Featured Article: Bali Java by Denny Wirawan 2015-2016 Collection


Article by art8amby contributor, Ajeng Rahma Safitri.

Elegant, confident and vivid within classy contemporary-traditional fusion. This might be the core value perceived by hundred pair of eyes at Denny Wirawan Batik Kudus fashion show, held on September 3rd, 2015 at the Grand Ballroom of Hotel Indonesia Kempinski Jakarta.

Flashing towards the festive and blissful atmosphere of “Pasar Malam” – which literally means Fun Fair in English term – the show seemed to encourage the enchantment of Batik Kudus, which contains humble beauty with versatility, without being arrogantly lavishing in any ways.
Through a visual prologue screened prior the show, Denny Wirawan has a desire of bringing up Batik Kudus as a proud thew of Indonesia. Wearable, stylish and fashionably forward, Batik Kudus could suit any occasion and set. His outfits are made for sociable and highly dynamic women who need to appear in pride with authentic traditional elegance.

Lights on, and a march of traditional dancers enliven the runway, with colorful flags fluttering and joyful dextral dance movements. It was a preface of first sequence, revealing mostly monochrome based palette, with some touch of colorful floral Batik motifs. With varied silhouette – loose tops, blazers and dress, including some crop tops – these attires unleash wearable casual elegance to fit women’s curve at any semi-formal occasion. Denny Wirawan put along some spark of beads here, catching some wide sight eyes to the stage. This might be proper to enhance your look on any meeting occasions after office hours.



Some men’s wear looks were shown in between, under a similar palette, with more geometric patterns rather than common Batik motifs. Men’s wear look evolving somewhere beyond holistic theme, in a more modern dimension. Even though it has some inherent with attire’s wearing aim in this sequence. Else than its monochrome, the first sequence also included some taupe with luminous print, and red motifs on some flying capes which give a bold of the subtle. In short, these apparels are easy-to-wear and relatively safe to wear.

From the first apparel of second sequence, the stage experience turned almost upside down with radiant and graceful dresses, grabbing eyes with more sequins. Red, orange, black and gold, all collaborating to show the paradoxically humble-swank. These are ultra-feminine looks, wiping stage’s floor in a princess style. For those who are craving for amiable beauty with sufficient boldness rather than over-glamorous ones in a formal occasion, this may be one of the answers.
Last but not least, literally, might be favorite sequence of the night. The last sequence – or unofficially called “The Peak” – unveiled dominating tosca green with shades of gray and monochrome palette, with gold and pastel touch. These outfits are ultimate occasional wears, sparkling with richer sequins and loose silhouette dresses. Strikingly feminine, these dresses reveal an obvious confidence, gracefully bold, with highly observable patterns and appliques. In some points, the last sequence somehow recalled the taste of “Priyayi Jawa” – the upper middle and the high class of Javanese ancient social status – with modern and mingle personality.

Briefly, “Pasar Malam” fashion show intended to bring distinctively stratified experience of the three sequences; started with the casual one and ended up in a major grace. Denny Wirawan made a proof of his statement about his adore towards the geometric patterns of Batik Kudus, which can be created as either classic or contemporary, delicate and bold.

However, the bliss and joy of Pasar Malam was not blowed up significantly. It has mere atmosphere at the beginning, and the presence vanished along the way. Despite an outstanding performance by Marcell Siahaan in between sequences stunned all fashion lovers, the attendees might lose the whole experience of a fashion show brought on stage because of it. This could be a consideration for any future show, for the sake of perfect decoding process on the eyes of fashion show viewers, to perceive a common experience, exactly like what designers desired.

Images courtesy of Fimela.





Featured Article: Biyan Spring Summer 2016


Biyan Wanaatmadja explored multiple emotions, such as surreal and magical, that comes within a dream for a dainty, delicate Spring Summer 2016 collection aptly named “Dream” that was presented last Thursday, June 11th 2015 at The Dharmawangsa Hotel, Jakarta.

He created a beautifully serene collection with his signature luxurious, feminine sensibility and relaxed yet dynamic sophistication. He combined the inspirations from Indonesia‘s own kebaya detailing, old children storybook and tiles pattern that seen at old churches and buildings with intricate workmanship such as lattice embroidery, eyelet, macrame, and chunky embellishments and embroideries.

The dreamy color palette is a mixture of neutral and muted colors like white, ivory, beige, grey, celadon, tile blue and powder blue. For this collection, Biyan merged heavy and light materials (glittered tulle, printed silk organza, linen, silk georgette, taffeta, and denim) with romantic yet whimsical silhouettes (long dresses, A-line skirt, palazzo pants and loose coats and jackets). Majestic white tree in the center of the runway, romantic sleek bun and neutral make up with a stroke of white on one side of the face completed the presentation.

Browse through our Facebook fanpage and let the beautiful collection speaks for itself.

Read our review of his past collections “Seruni“, “The Radiance Postcard” and “Foliage” by clicking the links.

Please do not reproduce the images without permission. Images must be accompanied by a working link to this post.

All images are courtesy of Yannis Yereoudakis for art8amby.







Featured Article: Biyan Spring Summer 2015


In Asia, Seruni (in Bahasa Indonesia) or Chrysanthemum is often believed as the symbol of life and immortality. Based on that spirit, prominent Indonesian fashion designer Biyan Wanaatmadja presented his latest collection on Tuesday evening, June 17th 2014 at Hotel Mulia Senayan, Jakarta which was inspired from the fusion of Japanese art and culture and the tribal nuance of Sumba-Indonesia.

On the first sequence, silk flowing dresses in soft muted colors like cloudy blue, blush pink and mint green with chrysanthemum and paintings-like prints were dominating the runway. The serene feeling was completed with the occasional crane and floral appliqué. We love how Biyan perceives his women as feminine, pure/innocent, stylish and at the same time they are also strong, cool, open minded and both equally balance and beautiful.

Darker colour palette like black, midnight blue and aubergine purple took over the second sequence, where you can drooling over those heavily embellished top and jacket/coat with droopy shoulder. The intricately authentic Indonesian traditional Sumba figurative inspired ikat were seen in this sequence. Tribal essence on some of the beading details gave a nice surprise in the collection. The trapeze and A-line silhouettes made recurring appearances with various placements of ruffles (hemline, neckline and sleeve).

Other than the crane appliqué and floral print, the Japanese inspirations were elaborated even more in the form of loose shapes, kimono collar, and Samurai-inspired pants. Not to mention the post-runway-show-selfie-backdrop-ready bamboo forest where the models came out to strutting down the runway. We were excited when we see his favourite models such as Hege Wollan (the show opener), Paula Verhoeven, Izabel Jahja, Laura Basuki and Nayla Alatas walked the runway in sky-high wedges on wooden floor with sleek Samurai chignon. White highlights adorned models’ eyelids and some of them wearing beautiful handmade Japanese-inspired necklaces made out of horns, feathers, shells, cowries, crystals and semi-precious stones.

Gorgeous sheer evening dresses with divine details closed the final sequence of the evening. If you look closely, you will appreciate the hard-work and craftsmanship from those who created the beautiful dresses. The magnificent embroideries and embellishments were superb! The juxtaposition of bright-light and dark-intense, pure and strong, feminine and masculine in Seruni collection were a total feast to the eye.

Read our review of his last year’s collection “The Radiance Postcard” and 2013 “Foliage” collection by clicking the links. Visit our Facebook page to view MORE runway images of “Seruni“.

Please do not reproduce the images without permission. Images must be accompanied by a working link to this post.

All images are courtesy of art8amby.











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