Featured Article: Biyan Spring Summer 2017

Entering the 34th year of his dedication in fashion industry, one of Indonesia’s fashion maestros, Biyan Wanaatmaja, presented the new Women’s Wear Spring/Summer 2017 Collection of his main line, BIYAN. The highly-anticipated show was held at Segara Hall, The Dharmawangsa Jakarta, on June 1st 2016, within philosophic idea called “Benang Merah“.

Benang Merah brings a philosophy of harmonic diversity. Biyan defines ‘diversity’ as the variation of many components which results on enthusiasm for the intermixture, in which every composition is connected in a harmony. “There is an evolution in each phase of every person’s life, that indirectly forms their character”, said Biyan about Benang Merah. This collection born with many factors built the idea: accumulation of history, influences medias, figurations, colors, textures and sounds that are recorded in his memory, including the archives of his previous collections.

In the beginning of the show, audiences were stimulated by a heavenly Goddess-like back sound, with gradually lighten runway. The whole space of Segara hall was all dominated by red ambiance. Oriental-styled tall pillars enliven the red runway. Benang Merah delivers a complexity in mood, transition and emotions. In personified description, the show portrays a lady who has strongly divided characters at once, yet stands independently with her principals, and the most importantly, she has her own taste. The transition and layering of fashion show’s back sounds reflected Biyan‘s idea of harmony very perfectly. At the beginning, audience could feel mysterious beauty, which slowly faded and replaced with elegant and contemporary music that reminds of Javanese aristocrat era. The latter music compositions brought the feel of graceful-melancholic seduction, which slowly turned to be dynamic with a bit sense of humor. The models on the runway were sporting sleek bun with gold hairpiece and minimal make up so that the beauty looks didn’t overpowered the collection.

Distinguished from many fashion shows in which audiences can see some stated moods from different sequences, Benang Merah does not seem to have any part or sequences. It showcased undefined climax and anticlimax; there is no mood stratification. The experience received by audiences might be complicated. Benang Merah constructed a vivid imagination and memory collage of Biyan. The collection itself is rich, in terms of inspirations. However, this complicated complexity was nicely presented, and offers a generalizable conclusion: it is intricate, glamorous, elegant and very sophisticated.

BIYAN Spring/Summer 2017 Collection involves contrast colors and full of textures. The color palette includes shades of red, coral, indigo blue, fresh mint and olive, which are mixed with off white, beige, gold, silver and black. Biyan created this collection through an intense process and experiments, yet still drew coherency through silhouettes, volumes and materials, with an exploration towards Gujarat-originated Chintz fabric. Biyan combined some lavish materials such as lame jacquard with lace textures, with basic materials like denim and linen. He put some deconstructive spirits within raw edges and embroidery archive-inspired patchworks. Metal emboss, handcrafted brass, mineral stones, caved bones, glass and crystal beads, Swarovski, freshwater pearl, and lace ribbon are some of many elements he uses to create unique and intricate wearable looks.

BIYAN Spring/Summer 2017 Collection is a contrast in harmony, with assimilated physical and philosophical elements. Despite of its complexity which may be difficult to digest, it is more than just a collection. It is a form of treasure, which represents years of memories, involving multiple factors and elements. It is worth an attention.

See the complete runway photos and attendees (such as actresses Tara Basro and Adinia Wirasti) on our Facebook Fanpage. You can also see the collection in motion on our newly launched Youtube channel, and don’t forget to subscriber for more exclusive videos!

All photos are courtesy of art8amby, photographed by Agra Suseno.

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Featured Article: Bali Java by Denny Wirawan 2015-2016 Collection

Article by art8amby contributor, Ajeng Rahma Safitri.

Elegant, confident and vivid within classy contemporary-traditional fusion. This might be the core value perceived by hundred pair of eyes at Denny Wirawan Batik Kudus fashion show, held on September 3rd, 2015 at the Grand Ballroom of Hotel Indonesia Kempinski Jakarta.

Flashing towards the festive and blissful atmosphere of “Pasar Malam” – which literally means Fun Fair in English term – the show seemed to encourage the enchantment of Batik Kudus, which contains humble beauty with versatility, without being arrogantly lavishing in any ways.
Through a visual prologue screened prior the show, Denny Wirawan has a desire of bringing up Batik Kudus as a proud thew of Indonesia. Wearable, stylish and fashionably forward, Batik Kudus could suit any occasion and set. His outfits are made for sociable and highly dynamic women who need to appear in pride with authentic traditional elegance.

Lights on, and a march of traditional dancers enliven the runway, with colorful flags fluttering and joyful dextral dance movements. It was a preface of first sequence, revealing mostly monochrome based palette, with some touch of colorful floral Batik motifs. With varied silhouette – loose tops, blazers and dress, including some crop tops – these attires unleash wearable casual elegance to fit women’s curve at any semi-formal occasion. Denny Wirawan put along some spark of beads here, catching some wide sight eyes to the stage. This might be proper to enhance your look on any meeting occasions after office hours.

Some men’s wear looks were shown in between, under a similar palette, with more geometric patterns rather than common Batik motifs. Men’s wear look evolving somewhere beyond holistic theme, in a more modern dimension. Even though it has some inherent with attire’s wearing aim in this sequence. Else than its monochrome, the first sequence also included some taupe with luminous print, and red motifs on some flying capes which give a bold of the subtle. In short, these apparels are easy-to-wear and relatively safe to wear.

From the first apparel of second sequence, the stage experience turned almost upside down with radiant and graceful dresses, grabbing eyes with more sequins. Red, orange, black and gold, all collaborating to show the paradoxically humble-swank. These are ultra-feminine looks, wiping stage’s floor in a princess style. For those who are craving for amiable beauty with sufficient boldness rather than over-glamorous ones in a formal occasion, this may be one of the answers.
Last but not least, literally, might be favorite sequence of the night. The last sequence – or unofficially called “The Peak” – unveiled dominating tosca green with shades of gray and monochrome palette, with gold and pastel touch. These outfits are ultimate occasional wears, sparkling with richer sequins and loose silhouette dresses. Strikingly feminine, these dresses reveal an obvious confidence, gracefully bold, with highly observable patterns and appliques. In some points, the last sequence somehow recalled the taste of “Priyayi Jawa” – the upper middle and the high class of Javanese ancient social status – with modern and mingle personality.

Briefly, “Pasar Malam” fashion show intended to bring distinctively stratified experience of the three sequences; started with the casual one and ended up in a major grace. Denny Wirawan made a proof of his statement about his adore towards the geometric patterns of Batik Kudus, which can be created as either classic or contemporary, delicate and bold.

However, the bliss and joy of Pasar Malam was not blowed up significantly. It has mere atmosphere at the beginning, and the presence vanished along the way. Despite an outstanding performance by Marcell Siahaan in between sequences stunned all fashion lovers, the attendees might lose the whole experience of a fashion show brought on stage because of it. This could be a consideration for any future show, for the sake of perfect decoding process on the eyes of fashion show viewers, to perceive a common experience, exactly like what designers desired.

Images courtesy of Fimela.

Featured Article: Biyan Spring Summer 2016

Biyan Wanaatmadja explored multiple emotions, such as surreal and magical, that comes within a dream for a dainty, delicate Spring Summer 2016 collection aptly named “Dream” that was presented last Thursday, June 11th 2015 at The Dharmawangsa Hotel, Jakarta.

He created a beautifully serene collection with his signature luxurious, feminine sensibility and relaxed yet dynamic sophistication. He combined the inspirations from Indonesia‘s own kebaya detailing, old children storybook and tiles pattern that seen at old churches and buildings with intricate workmanship such as lattice embroidery, eyelet, macrame, and chunky embellishments and embroideries.

The dreamy color palette is a mixture of neutral and muted colors like white, ivory, beige, grey, celadon, tile blue and powder blue. For this collection, Biyan merged heavy and light materials (glittered tulle, printed silk organza, linen, silk georgette, taffeta, and denim) with romantic yet whimsical silhouettes (long dresses, A-line skirt, palazzo pants and loose coats and jackets). Majestic white tree in the center of the runway, romantic sleek bun and neutral make up with a stroke of white on one side of the face completed the presentation.

Browse through our Facebook fanpage and let the beautiful collection speaks for itself.

Read our review of his past collections “Seruni“, “The Radiance Postcard” and “Foliage” by clicking the links.

Please do not reproduce the images without permission. Images must be accompanied by a working link to this post.

All images are courtesy of Yannis Yereoudakis for art8amby.

Featured Article: Biyan Spring Summer 2015

In Asia, Seruni (in Bahasa Indonesia) or Chrysanthemum is often believed as the symbol of life and immortality. Based on that spirit, prominent Indonesian fashion designer Biyan Wanaatmadja presented his latest collection on Tuesday evening, June 17th 2014 at Hotel Mulia Senayan, Jakarta which was inspired from the fusion of Japanese art and culture and the tribal nuance of Sumba-Indonesia.

On the first sequence, silk flowing dresses in soft muted colors like cloudy blue, blush pink and mint green with chrysanthemum and paintings-like prints were dominating the runway. The serene feeling was completed with the occasional crane and floral appliqué. We love how Biyan perceives his women as feminine, pure/innocent, stylish and at the same time they are also strong, cool, open minded and both equally balance and beautiful.

Darker colour palette like black, midnight blue and aubergine purple took over the second sequence, where you can drooling over those heavily embellished top and jacket/coat with droopy shoulder. The intricately authentic Indonesian traditional Sumba figurative inspired ikat were seen in this sequence. Tribal essence on some of the beading details gave a nice surprise in the collection. The trapeze and A-line silhouettes made recurring appearances with various placements of ruffles (hemline, neckline and sleeve).

Other than the crane appliqué and floral print, the Japanese inspirations were elaborated even more in the form of loose shapes, kimono collar, and Samurai-inspired pants. Not to mention the post-runway-show-selfie-backdrop-ready bamboo forest where the models came out to strutting down the runway. We were excited when we see his favourite models such as Hege Wollan (the show opener), Paula Verhoeven, Izabel Jahja, Laura Basuki and Nayla Alatas walked the runway in sky-high wedges on wooden floor with sleek Samurai chignon. White highlights adorned models’ eyelids and some of them wearing beautiful handmade Japanese-inspired necklaces made out of horns, feathers, shells, cowries, crystals and semi-precious stones.

Gorgeous sheer evening dresses with divine details closed the final sequence of the evening. If you look closely, you will appreciate the hard-work and craftsmanship from those who created the beautiful dresses. The magnificent embroideries and embellishments were superb! The juxtaposition of bright-light and dark-intense, pure and strong, feminine and masculine in Seruni collection were a total feast to the eye.

Read our review of his last year’s collection “The Radiance Postcard” and 2013 “Foliage” collection by clicking the links. Visit our Facebook page to view MORE runway images of “Seruni“.

Please do not reproduce the images without permission. Images must be accompanied by a working link to this post.

All images are courtesy of art8amby.

Paris Mens Fashion Week: Louis Vuitton Fall 2014

Featured Article: Sapto Djojokartiko Couture Fall Winter 2013-2014

The Solo-born fashion designer closed 2013 with his brilliant latest collection which was inspired by two international figures: Madame Grès and Irving Penn, who were popular at 1950′s (his favourite era of fashion). Drapped ball gown with hour glass silhouette, emphasizing on woman’s slim waist, was one of his signature designs this time.

Adjusting with current modern era, Sapto Djojokartiko made the dresses more practical, with light movement as the main focus. You can see lots of movement from the use of chiffon in the first sequence that was only presented in bold red and black. Shoulder was also one of the highlights from the first sequence, as lots of the dresses were showing the sexy area.

In the second sequence, Sapto presented more ladylike silhouette with elaborate brocade, luscious lurex, amazing beading works, and intricate draping technique. One of our favourite looks was the one worn by Katya Talanova. It was elegant yet sophisticated. You can expect to see his latest designs hitting red carpet events and fashion editorials very soon!

The latest collection from Sapto Djojokartiko was presented on December 18th 2013, at Kerastase 50th Anniversary event in Ritz Carlton Pacific Place Ballroom, Jakarta. Click here to view the complete collection.

Images courtesy of Sapto Djojokartiko.

Featured Article: Era Soekamto Spring 2014

Era Soekamto, the former duo of hip clothing line Urban Crew with Ichwan Thoha, named her latest collection “1421“. The year when the Chinese people had already exploring the world before Europeans did and also the name of a book by Gavin Menzies which explained that it was the year China discovered the world.

Inspired by the book, she mixed Indonesian traditional elements (kebaya, batik), with Chinese’s signature cheongsam and oriental flower details, and Europeans’s elegant intricacy and silhouette (cape and mullet dresses). Metal headpieces, big necklaces and gold embroidered velvet belts completed the regal yet sophisticated looks.

The collection was presented on Wednesday, October 09th 2013 during Bazaar Fashion Festival – IPMI Trend Show 2014 at Gandaria City, Jakarta, Indonesia.

Click here to view the complete runway images from Era Soekamto Spring 2014 collection.

Images courtesy of art8amby.

Featured Article: Hervé Léger by Max Azria Barbie

Hervé Léger by Max Azria and Barbie are partnering for an exclusive collaboration: Hervé Léger by Max Azria Barbie.

The Barbie will be hitting stores mid October 2013 and will be sold exclusively at Hervé Léger by Max Azria retail stores, select Neiman Marcus retail stores, and on BarbieCollector.com for $150. Life size dresses will be available at Neiman Marcus and Hervé Léger by Max Azria retail stores.

Barbie’s miniature dresses will be constructed out of authentic Hervé Léger by Max Azria bandages and yarns and will be manufactured at the same factory that produces the full designer collection. Her dresses and accessories will also be available in life-size.

The Hervé Léger by Max Azria Barbie doll dons a scarlet bandage dress, accented with a black corset harness belt, black gladiator boots and a signature black and gold clutch. The second runway-inspired outfit for Hervé Léger by Max Azria Barbie doll is a black and white jacquard dress, open-toe booties and a black studded clutch.

“Working with Barbie Collector on this exclusive collaboration has been an incredible experience. The Hervé Léger Barbie doll is a milestone project that I am excited to share with collectors of both brands. Deciding how to dress Barbie was such a hard decision because we knew it had to be classic and timeless. We went with an iconic bandage dress in a scarlet red. We also wanted her to have an aspirational look, so we included a look from our Runway collection. Barbie’s dresses are replicas of the original dresses and along with the doll you can get both dresses in real life sizes sold exclusively at Neiman Marcus and Hervé Léger by Max Azria boutiques. As you can imagine, the biggest challenge was the scaling down of the knit. The accessories also dress-up the classic dress. We wanted the accessories to make a statement so we chose our harnesses from the Fall 2012 collection.” Lubov Azria, Chief Creative Officer of BCBGMAXAZRIAGROUP explained. Images courtesy of BCBGMAXAZRIAGROUP.

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Featured Article: Biyan Spring Summer 2014

Four huge “Garudas” placed strategically and majestically at the beginning of the runway, as a hint that for his latest collection, Biyan Wanaatmadja is taking inspiration from his homeland, Indonesia.

He used authentic Indonesian traditional textile and craft (batik, songket, tikar and basketry), as prints on light silk. He twisted the keraton inspired coats and jackets by adding his signature glamour touch in the use of intricate embroideries, beads and embellishments, which exudes the refined sophistication feeling. Some kebayas were modified in different silhouettes and volume, not to mentioned sarong inspired skirts. The juxtaposition between masculine and feminine were inevitable as some lace dresses were paired with cigarette pants. The use of delicate lace were interesting yet refreshing because Biyan usually used organza, tafetta, and tulle (which also appeared this time). Loose shapes is back on the runway, along with the effortless billowy sleeves.

Biyan doesn’t need bright and bold colors to celebrate his 30 radiant years in fashion. He mostly used down to earth and muted colors such as washed white, taupe grey, sogan brown, pumpkin brown and dusty pastels (chalk blue, celadon, peach, lilac tint, pale khaki). Even the lighting was sephia to make it more intimate yet serene. He also presented the ever lasting black and elegant midnight blue on the runway of his fashion show at Hotel Mulia Senayan on Wednesday, June 05th 2013.

Young model Hege Martine Wollan landed the honor to opened the show, while Paula Verhoeven closed. Some Indonesian runway veteran such as Laura Basuki, Izabel Jahja, and Wiwied also walked the show that night sporting similar neutral make up with sequined lids and sleek chignon like other models. He even casted supermodel Fahrani Pawaka Empel! What a lovely surprise for the excited guests.

“The Radiance Postcard” suits perfectly as the collection’s name because it reflects his creativity journey for the past three decades. He translated his memories diversity to this elegant yet modern collection with traditional twist. We are wishing Biyan all the very best for his upcoming collections and we are looking forward to see these dresses, coats and jackets on the displays of Bergdorf Goodman, Blake, Joyce, Club 21, Saks Fifth Avenue Dubai, and of course Net-A-Porter.

Read our review of his last year’s collection “Foliage” here, and click here to view MORE runway images of “The Radiance Postcard“.

Please do not reproduce the images without permission. Images must be accompanied by a working link to this post.

All images are courtesy of art8amby.

Lookbook: Sapto Djojokartiko Resort – Evening Collection 2013

Model Jessie Setiono at WYNN stars in Sapto Djojokartiko‘s latest lookbook that was photographed by Hakim Satriyo. The romanticism of orchid has inspired the design of the current collection. His selection of dark colors pallette such as brown, gray and black indicates an escape from the lovely-sweet one. The sense of feminine-elegant with gloomy and misty nuance mixture reveal a kind of black swan effect for whoever wears.

Lace – one of Sapto Djojokartiko‘s design characteristic – is applied in some details. Orchid petals volume, as the main theme of this collection, are blossomed into embroideries and embellishments, as well as peplums, ruffles, beads and sparkling sequins. Instead of blurring, these thirteen feminine-dark dresses stunningly shine up women beauty and elegance.

Andy Chun responsible for Jessie‘s sensual make up while Indah Tode made the subtle retro waves hair. The collection is available at the newly opened premium department store, Galeries Lafayette Jakarta.

“It was a privilege to work with Galeries Lafayette, an iconic department store possessing such a rich Parisian heritage,” said Djojokartiko. “Galeries Lafayette has a great appreciation of style and craftsmanship which truly complements the Sapto Djojokartiko brand.”

Click here to view the complete lookbook images from the collection.

Images via Sapto Djojokartiko.