Featured Article: Biyan Spring Summer 2017

Entering the 34th year of his dedication in fashion industry, one of Indonesia’s fashion maestros, Biyan Wanaatmaja, presented the new Women’s Wear Spring/Summer 2017 Collection of his main line, BIYAN. The highly-anticipated show was held at Segara Hall, The Dharmawangsa Jakarta, on June 1st 2016, within philosophic idea called “Benang Merah“.

Benang Merah brings a philosophy of harmonic diversity. Biyan defines ‘diversity’ as the variation of many components which results on enthusiasm for the intermixture, in which every composition is connected in a harmony. “There is an evolution in each phase of every person’s life, that indirectly forms their character”, said Biyan about Benang Merah. This collection born with many factors built the idea: accumulation of history, influences medias, figurations, colors, textures and sounds that are recorded in his memory, including the archives of his previous collections.

In the beginning of the show, audiences were stimulated by a heavenly Goddess-like back sound, with gradually lighten runway. The whole space of Segara hall was all dominated by red ambiance. Oriental-styled tall pillars enliven the red runway. Benang Merah delivers a complexity in mood, transition and emotions. In personified description, the show portrays a lady who has strongly divided characters at once, yet stands independently with her principals, and the most importantly, she has her own taste. The transition and layering of fashion show’s back sounds reflected Biyan‘s idea of harmony very perfectly. At the beginning, audience could feel mysterious beauty, which slowly faded and replaced with elegant and contemporary music that reminds of Javanese aristocrat era. The latter music compositions brought the feel of graceful-melancholic seduction, which slowly turned to be dynamic with a bit sense of humor. The models on the runway were sporting sleek bun with gold hairpiece and minimal make up so that the beauty looks didn’t overpowered the collection.

Distinguished from many fashion shows in which audiences can see some stated moods from different sequences, Benang Merah does not seem to have any part or sequences. It showcased undefined climax and anticlimax; there is no mood stratification. The experience received by audiences might be complicated. Benang Merah constructed a vivid imagination and memory collage of Biyan. The collection itself is rich, in terms of inspirations. However, this complicated complexity was nicely presented, and offers a generalizable conclusion: it is intricate, glamorous, elegant and very sophisticated.

BIYAN Spring/Summer 2017 Collection involves contrast colors and full of textures. The color palette includes shades of red, coral, indigo blue, fresh mint and olive, which are mixed with off white, beige, gold, silver and black. Biyan created this collection through an intense process and experiments, yet still drew coherency through silhouettes, volumes and materials, with an exploration towards Gujarat-originated Chintz fabric. Biyan combined some lavish materials such as lame jacquard with lace textures, with basic materials like denim and linen. He put some deconstructive spirits within raw edges and embroidery archive-inspired patchworks. Metal emboss, handcrafted brass, mineral stones, caved bones, glass and crystal beads, Swarovski, freshwater pearl, and lace ribbon are some of many elements he uses to create unique and intricate wearable looks.

BIYAN Spring/Summer 2017 Collection is a contrast in harmony, with assimilated physical and philosophical elements. Despite of its complexity which may be difficult to digest, it is more than just a collection. It is a form of treasure, which represents years of memories, involving multiple factors and elements. It is worth an attention.

See the complete runway photos and attendees (such as actresses Tara Basro and Adinia Wirasti) on our Facebook Fanpage. You can also see the collection in motion on our newly launched Youtube channel, and don’t forget to subscriber for more exclusive videos!

All photos are courtesy of art8amby, photographed by Agra Suseno.

Please do not reproduce the content from this album in its entirety without permission. Images must be accompanied by a working link to this album and must be mentioning @art8amby and @agrasuseno.

Featured Article: Bali Java by Denny Wirawan 2015-2016 Collection

Article by art8amby contributor, Ajeng Rahma Safitri.

Elegant, confident and vivid within classy contemporary-traditional fusion. This might be the core value perceived by hundred pair of eyes at Denny Wirawan Batik Kudus fashion show, held on September 3rd, 2015 at the Grand Ballroom of Hotel Indonesia Kempinski Jakarta.

Flashing towards the festive and blissful atmosphere of “Pasar Malam” – which literally means Fun Fair in English term – the show seemed to encourage the enchantment of Batik Kudus, which contains humble beauty with versatility, without being arrogantly lavishing in any ways.
Through a visual prologue screened prior the show, Denny Wirawan has a desire of bringing up Batik Kudus as a proud thew of Indonesia. Wearable, stylish and fashionably forward, Batik Kudus could suit any occasion and set. His outfits are made for sociable and highly dynamic women who need to appear in pride with authentic traditional elegance.

Lights on, and a march of traditional dancers enliven the runway, with colorful flags fluttering and joyful dextral dance movements. It was a preface of first sequence, revealing mostly monochrome based palette, with some touch of colorful floral Batik motifs. With varied silhouette – loose tops, blazers and dress, including some crop tops – these attires unleash wearable casual elegance to fit women’s curve at any semi-formal occasion. Denny Wirawan put along some spark of beads here, catching some wide sight eyes to the stage. This might be proper to enhance your look on any meeting occasions after office hours.

Some men’s wear looks were shown in between, under a similar palette, with more geometric patterns rather than common Batik motifs. Men’s wear look evolving somewhere beyond holistic theme, in a more modern dimension. Even though it has some inherent with attire’s wearing aim in this sequence. Else than its monochrome, the first sequence also included some taupe with luminous print, and red motifs on some flying capes which give a bold of the subtle. In short, these apparels are easy-to-wear and relatively safe to wear.

From the first apparel of second sequence, the stage experience turned almost upside down with radiant and graceful dresses, grabbing eyes with more sequins. Red, orange, black and gold, all collaborating to show the paradoxically humble-swank. These are ultra-feminine looks, wiping stage’s floor in a princess style. For those who are craving for amiable beauty with sufficient boldness rather than over-glamorous ones in a formal occasion, this may be one of the answers.
Last but not least, literally, might be favorite sequence of the night. The last sequence – or unofficially called “The Peak” – unveiled dominating tosca green with shades of gray and monochrome palette, with gold and pastel touch. These outfits are ultimate occasional wears, sparkling with richer sequins and loose silhouette dresses. Strikingly feminine, these dresses reveal an obvious confidence, gracefully bold, with highly observable patterns and appliques. In some points, the last sequence somehow recalled the taste of “Priyayi Jawa” – the upper middle and the high class of Javanese ancient social status – with modern and mingle personality.

Briefly, “Pasar Malam” fashion show intended to bring distinctively stratified experience of the three sequences; started with the casual one and ended up in a major grace. Denny Wirawan made a proof of his statement about his adore towards the geometric patterns of Batik Kudus, which can be created as either classic or contemporary, delicate and bold.

However, the bliss and joy of Pasar Malam was not blowed up significantly. It has mere atmosphere at the beginning, and the presence vanished along the way. Despite an outstanding performance by Marcell Siahaan in between sequences stunned all fashion lovers, the attendees might lose the whole experience of a fashion show brought on stage because of it. This could be a consideration for any future show, for the sake of perfect decoding process on the eyes of fashion show viewers, to perceive a common experience, exactly like what designers desired.

Images courtesy of Fimela.

Featured Article: Biyan Spring Summer 2016

Biyan Wanaatmadja explored multiple emotions, such as surreal and magical, that comes within a dream for a dainty, delicate Spring Summer 2016 collection aptly named “Dream” that was presented last Thursday, June 11th 2015 at The Dharmawangsa Hotel, Jakarta.

He created a beautifully serene collection with his signature luxurious, feminine sensibility and relaxed yet dynamic sophistication. He combined the inspirations from Indonesia‘s own kebaya detailing, old children storybook and tiles pattern that seen at old churches and buildings with intricate workmanship such as lattice embroidery, eyelet, macrame, and chunky embellishments and embroideries.

The dreamy color palette is a mixture of neutral and muted colors like white, ivory, beige, grey, celadon, tile blue and powder blue. For this collection, Biyan merged heavy and light materials (glittered tulle, printed silk organza, linen, silk georgette, taffeta, and denim) with romantic yet whimsical silhouettes (long dresses, A-line skirt, palazzo pants and loose coats and jackets). Majestic white tree in the center of the runway, romantic sleek bun and neutral make up with a stroke of white on one side of the face completed the presentation.

Browse through our Facebook fanpage and let the beautiful collection speaks for itself.

Read our review of his past collections “Seruni“, “The Radiance Postcard” and “Foliage” by clicking the links.

Please do not reproduce the images without permission. Images must be accompanied by a working link to this post.

All images are courtesy of Yannis Yereoudakis for art8amby.

Featured Article: Numéro Tokyo 2014 Covers Recap

December is not even started but here we are, presenting our first 2014 covers recap already!

As usual, Numéro Tokyo is the first magazine to wrapped up their front pages line up for this year. They started the year with a soft palette cover and styling of this year’s IT model, Cara Delevingne. Valerija Kelava, with a blunt bangs, fronted the magazine’s March issue shot by Sofia Sanchez and Mauro Mongiello who shot the most covers this year. Another cover model with blunt bangs hairstyle was Vlada Roslyakova on the April issue by Ellen Von Unwerth.

Continuing their tradition of having studio shoots, Numéro Tokyo photographed most of their covers with plain backdrop in various colors. From Kiko Mizuhara beauty shot, flower girl Meghan Collison, to classic faced Julia Frauche, cool veteran catwalker Maggie Rizer to model turned actress Tao Okamoto. The only time they have outdoor shots were the one with Elizabeth Olsen (by Michael Schwartz) and Lindsey Wixson (by Guy Aroch)—our favourite image of the year from them.

Share your favourite covers in the comment box below.

Click the links to read 2013, 2012, 2011 and 2010 recaps from Numéro Tokyo.

Featured Article: Biyan Spring Summer 2015

In Asia, Seruni (in Bahasa Indonesia) or Chrysanthemum is often believed as the symbol of life and immortality. Based on that spirit, prominent Indonesian fashion designer Biyan Wanaatmadja presented his latest collection on Tuesday evening, June 17th 2014 at Hotel Mulia Senayan, Jakarta which was inspired from the fusion of Japanese art and culture and the tribal nuance of Sumba-Indonesia.

On the first sequence, silk flowing dresses in soft muted colors like cloudy blue, blush pink and mint green with chrysanthemum and paintings-like prints were dominating the runway. The serene feeling was completed with the occasional crane and floral appliqué. We love how Biyan perceives his women as feminine, pure/innocent, stylish and at the same time they are also strong, cool, open minded and both equally balance and beautiful.

Darker colour palette like black, midnight blue and aubergine purple took over the second sequence, where you can drooling over those heavily embellished top and jacket/coat with droopy shoulder. The intricately authentic Indonesian traditional Sumba figurative inspired ikat were seen in this sequence. Tribal essence on some of the beading details gave a nice surprise in the collection. The trapeze and A-line silhouettes made recurring appearances with various placements of ruffles (hemline, neckline and sleeve).

Other than the crane appliqué and floral print, the Japanese inspirations were elaborated even more in the form of loose shapes, kimono collar, and Samurai-inspired pants. Not to mention the post-runway-show-selfie-backdrop-ready bamboo forest where the models came out to strutting down the runway. We were excited when we see his favourite models such as Hege Wollan (the show opener), Paula Verhoeven, Izabel Jahja, Laura Basuki and Nayla Alatas walked the runway in sky-high wedges on wooden floor with sleek Samurai chignon. White highlights adorned models’ eyelids and some of them wearing beautiful handmade Japanese-inspired necklaces made out of horns, feathers, shells, cowries, crystals and semi-precious stones.

Gorgeous sheer evening dresses with divine details closed the final sequence of the evening. If you look closely, you will appreciate the hard-work and craftsmanship from those who created the beautiful dresses. The magnificent embroideries and embellishments were superb! The juxtaposition of bright-light and dark-intense, pure and strong, feminine and masculine in Seruni collection were a total feast to the eye.

Read our review of his last year’s collection “The Radiance Postcard” and 2013 “Foliage” collection by clicking the links. Visit our Facebook page to view MORE runway images of “Seruni“.

Please do not reproduce the images without permission. Images must be accompanied by a working link to this post.

All images are courtesy of art8amby.

Featured Article: Sapto Djojokartiko Couture Fall Winter 2013-2014

The Solo-born fashion designer closed 2013 with his brilliant latest collection which was inspired by two international figures: Madame Grès and Irving Penn, who were popular at 1950′s (his favourite era of fashion). Drapped ball gown with hour glass silhouette, emphasizing on woman’s slim waist, was one of his signature designs this time.

Adjusting with current modern era, Sapto Djojokartiko made the dresses more practical, with light movement as the main focus. You can see lots of movement from the use of chiffon in the first sequence that was only presented in bold red and black. Shoulder was also one of the highlights from the first sequence, as lots of the dresses were showing the sexy area.

In the second sequence, Sapto presented more ladylike silhouette with elaborate brocade, luscious lurex, amazing beading works, and intricate draping technique. One of our favourite looks was the one worn by Katya Talanova. It was elegant yet sophisticated. You can expect to see his latest designs hitting red carpet events and fashion editorials very soon!

The latest collection from Sapto Djojokartiko was presented on December 18th 2013, at Kerastase 50th Anniversary event in Ritz Carlton Pacific Place Ballroom, Jakarta. Click here to view the complete collection.

Images courtesy of Sapto Djojokartiko.

Featured Article: Vogue Germany 2013 Covers Recap

Vogue Germany is one of the best Vogue editions who delivers great covers, in our opinion. They always tapped top models, and famous celebrities as the cover stars. This year, they presented unexpected cover subjects with Karl Lagerfeld‘s infamous feline Choupette, who’s gracing their July issue (together with supermodel Linda Evangelista), and the legendary singer Tina Turner who was their April cover star! Both of the covers were photographed by Kaiser Karl and Claudia Knoepfel and Stefan Indlekofer respectively. We love how Tina still looking fierce and fabulous at 74. And we believe that she’s the oldest living person to ever graced the cover of Vogue.

Vogue Germany continues to working together with some of their past cover models such as Doutzen Kroes, Kati Nescher (she landed two slots this year!), Saskia de Brauw, Anja Rubik, Julia Stegner and Constance Jablonski. The models posed in front of the lens from renowned fashion photographers Daniel Jackson, Daniele Duella and Iango Henzi, Claudia Knopfel and Stefan Indlekofer, Giampaolo Sgura and Alexi Lubomirski.

The editors also give Karmen Pedaru, Vanessa Axente, and Edie Campbell their first cover slot for Vogue Germany. The established fashion models graced the June, October, and November issues respectively. Those images were shot by Alexi Lubomirski, Luigi and Daniele + Iango, and Daniel Jackson.

Last but not least, Academy Award winner Nicole Kidman, and Academy Award-nominated actress Jessica Chastain were the remaining celebrities who landed the front pages of the monthly fashion publication this year. The 46 year old Mrs.Keith Urban collaborates with two powerhouse photographers, Patrick Demarchelier and Camilla Akrans, for the August issue, while fellow redhead Jessica Chastain (36) was shot by Bruce Weber for the magazine’s first issue in 2013.

Share to us your favourite image this year from Vogue Germany. And you can also read our 2012, 2011, and 2010 recaps by clicking the links.

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Featured Article: Vogue Italia 2013 Covers Recap

British model and Fall Winter 2013 campaign queen Edie Campbell is clearly snatched the title of Vogue Italia‘s current favourite model. She was photographed three times by Steven Meisel on the front pages this year. From the quirky and unusual look on the April issue, to the effortlessly beautiful May cover with runway veteran Karen Elson, to the classic black and white image on the October issue. Franca Sozzani and her long time collaborator Steven Meisel really loves the 5′ 9″ model.

Another favourite this year is American stunner Amanda Murphy, who is also the current fave of Miuccia Prada. The model who landed #18 spot on Models.com prestigious Top 50 list graced Vogue Italia‘s July and August issue respectively. Brazilian powerhouse Gisele Bundchen has been a long time regular cover star for the magazine, and this year she added two more slots to her ever growing cover list. She once again collaborating with Steven Meisel for the June issue, and also featured as one of the many cover subjects for the magazine’s July edition (alongside Tony Ward, Linda Evangelista, Natalia Vodianova, Raquel Zimmermann, RJ King, Dorian Reeves, Peter Marino, John Pearson, Ethan James, Cameron Russell, Frederik Meijnen, Meghan Collison, and Louis Steyaert)

The statuesque Hungarian Vanessa Axente was the Edie Campbell of 2012. She got featured twice on the cover last year, and in 2013 she landed yet another cover (for March issue with promising new male model Gustav Swedberg). This marked her third appearances for the monthly fashion publication in less than a year! Talk about a future established star in the making.

Special note came from Chinese catwalker Fei Fei Sun who’s featured on the January issue. The minimalist cover (also by Meisel) made history because Fei Fei is the first Asian model who landed an only-girl cover slot for Vogue Italia. Congratulations!

This year’s line up is complete as Steven Meisel also photographed top names Naomi Campbell, Doutzen Kroes, Ashleigh Good, and newcomers Anna Ewers, Ophélie Guillermand, Gracie Van Gastel, and Cindy Bruna as cover girls. Which one is your favourite this year?

You can also read our recaps on Vogue Italia‘s 2012, 2011, and 2010 line up.

Follow our Twitter (@art8amby), Facebook (art8amby), and Instagram (@art8amby) to get the latest news in magazine covers, models, ad campaigns, editorials and fashion news.

Featured Article: Vogue Paris 2013 Covers Recap

Our concerned on Vogue Paris covers last year was their dull and boring grey/white backgrounds, which they applied in most of the issue. This year, they stepped it up a bit with some interesting outdoor settings. Even though they still used the basic colors as the background for half of the edition this year, but the remaining issues which was shot outdoor makes up for it.

First they have actress/model Milla Jovovich who was shot against Manhattan skyline by Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin. We love the sephia and black combination here. The team then headed to the mountains of Cuzco, Peru, to shot Isabeli Fontana in front of Mario Testino‘s lens, The issue was a special issue promoting Mario Testino‘s beautiful homeland. St. Barts was their next destination, as Mario Sorrenti photographed first-time cover girl Andreea Diaconu wearing nothing but sands all over her body. The last outdoor cover was featuring the ever sexy Edita Vilkeviciute, who wears Balmain in front of the iconic view of French Riviera. Mario Testino also photographed this strikingly vibrant image.

The rest of the covers which was shot against white and grey backdrops were featuring models Suvi Koponen, Freja Beha Erichsen, one of Vogue Paris favourite established cover girls Daria Werbowy, Saskia de Brauw (we love this!), and Gisele Bundchen. The magazine also photographed singer turned prominent fashion designer Victoria Beckham, and her dreamy husband, David Beckham for the last issue of 2013. It’s such a nice surprise to see the power couple channeling Gone With The Wind poster in front of Inez & Vinoodh‘s lens.

Share to us your favourite this year in the comment box below. You can also read our 2012, 2011, and 2010 recaps by clicking the links.

Follow our Twitter (@art8amby), Facebook (art8amby), and Instagram (@art8amby) to get the latest news in magazine covers, models, ad campaigns, editorials and fashion news.

Featured Article: W Magazine 2013 Covers Recap

We got plenty of favourite covers from W Magazine this year. From Academy Award-nominated actress Jessica Chastain‘s artsy selection for January issue and Emma Stone sexy candid for February, to Katy Perry‘s ravishingly minimalist November cover and George Clooney‘s surprisingly good polkadot fever for December. W Magazine hired talented and well known photographers and artists such as Chantal Joffe, George Condo, Mickalene Thomas, Rineke Dijkstra, Juergen Teller, Mario Sorrenti, and Emma Summerton to snapped some of our favourite covers mentioned above.

Another favourite this year would be the remarkable three covers of March issue featuring three world renowned catwalkers Kate Moss, Natalia Vodianova, and Lara Stone, that were photographed stunningly seductive by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott. The casting, the colors, and the sensual vibe captivates our senses and we just love all of them!

British model Cara Delevingne is another model who landed the cover slot for the Stefano Tonchi-edited magazine this year. The 21 year old was also photographed by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott for the important September issue, which was released around her birthday. Talk about a perfect gift for the IT model of the moment.

Brit Marling, Edie Redmayne, Tilda Swinton, Emma Watson, Jennifer Lopez, Léa Seydoux,and Chloë Grace Moretz completed the star-studded list of the magazine 2013 cover subjects. They worked together with top photographers Alasdair McLellan, Tim Walker, Michael Thompson, Mario Sorrenti, and Craig McDean for the magazine’s April, May, June/July, August, and October issues respectively.

Which one is your favourite this year? You can also read our 2012, 2011, and 2010 recaps of W Magazine covers by clicking the links.

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