Entering the 34th year of his dedication in fashion industry, one of Indonesia’s fashion maestros, Biyan Wanaatmaja, presented the new Women’s Wear Spring/Summer 2017 Collection of his main line, BIYAN. The highly-anticipated show was held at Segara Hall, The Dharmawangsa Jakarta, on June 1st 2016, within philosophic idea called “Benang Merah“.
Benang Merah brings a philosophy of harmonic diversity. Biyan defines ‘diversity’ as the variation of many components which results on enthusiasm for the intermixture, in which every composition is connected in a harmony. “There is an evolution in each phase of every person’s life, that indirectly forms their character”, said Biyan about Benang Merah. This collection born with many factors built the idea: accumulation of history, influences medias, figurations, colors, textures and sounds that are recorded in his memory, including the archives of his previous collections.
In the beginning of the show, audiences were stimulated by a heavenly Goddess-like back sound, with gradually lighten runway. The whole space of Segara hall was all dominated by red ambiance. Oriental-styled tall pillars enliven the red runway. Benang Merah delivers a complexity in mood, transition and emotions. In personified description, the show portrays a lady who has strongly divided characters at once, yet stands independently with her principals, and the most importantly, she has her own taste. The transition and layering of fashion show’s back sounds reflected Biyan‘s idea of harmony very perfectly. At the beginning, audience could feel mysterious beauty, which slowly faded and replaced with elegant and contemporary music that reminds of Javanese aristocrat era. The latter music compositions brought the feel of graceful-melancholic seduction, which slowly turned to be dynamic with a bit sense of humor. The models on the runway were sporting sleek bun with gold hairpiece and minimal make up so that the beauty looks didn’t overpowered the collection.
Distinguished from many fashion shows in which audiences can see some stated moods from different sequences, Benang Merah does not seem to have any part or sequences. It showcased undefined climax and anticlimax; there is no mood stratification. The experience received by audiences might be complicated. Benang Merah constructed a vivid imagination and memory collage of Biyan. The collection itself is rich, in terms of inspirations. However, this complicated complexity was nicely presented, and offers a generalizable conclusion: it is intricate, glamorous, elegant and very sophisticated.
BIYAN Spring/Summer 2017 Collection involves contrast colors and full of textures. The color palette includes shades of red, coral, indigo blue, fresh mint and olive, which are mixed with off white, beige, gold, silver and black. Biyan created this collection through an intense process and experiments, yet still drew coherency through silhouettes, volumes and materials, with an exploration towards Gujarat-originated Chintz fabric. Biyan combined some lavish materials such as lame jacquard with lace textures, with basic materials like denim and linen. He put some deconstructive spirits within raw edges and embroidery archive-inspired patchworks. Metal emboss, handcrafted brass, mineral stones, caved bones, glass and crystal beads, Swarovski, freshwater pearl, and lace ribbon are some of many elements he uses to create unique and intricate wearable looks.
BIYAN Spring/Summer 2017 Collection is a contrast in harmony, with assimilated physical and philosophical elements. Despite of its complexity which may be difficult to digest, it is more than just a collection. It is a form of treasure, which represents years of memories, involving multiple factors and elements. It is worth an attention.
See the complete runway photos and attendees (such as actresses Tara Basro and Adinia Wirasti) on our Facebook Fanpage. You can also see the collection in motion on our newly launched Youtube channel, and don’t forget to subscriber for more exclusive videos!
All photos are courtesy of art8amby, photographed by Agra Suseno.