Featured Article: Biyan Spring Summer 2015

In Asia, Seruni (in Bahasa Indonesia) or Chrysanthemum is often believed as the symbol of life and immortality. Based on that spirit, prominent Indonesian fashion designer Biyan Wanaatmadja presented his latest collection on Tuesday evening, June 17th 2014 at Hotel Mulia Senayan, Jakarta which was inspired from the fusion of Japanese art and culture and the tribal nuance of Sumba-Indonesia.

On the first sequence, silk flowing dresses in soft muted colors like cloudy blue, blush pink and mint green with chrysanthemum and paintings-like prints were dominating the runway. The serene feeling was completed with the occasional crane and floral appliqué. We love how Biyan perceives his women as feminine, pure/innocent, stylish and at the same time they are also strong, cool, open minded and both equally balance and beautiful.

Darker colour palette like black, midnight blue and aubergine purple took over the second sequence, where you can drooling over those heavily embellished top and jacket/coat with droopy shoulder. The intricately authentic Indonesian traditional Sumba figurative inspired ikat were seen in this sequence. Tribal essence on some of the beading details gave a nice surprise in the collection. The trapeze and A-line silhouettes made recurring appearances with various placements of ruffles (hemline, neckline and sleeve).

Other than the crane appliqué and floral print, the Japanese inspirations were elaborated even more in the form of loose shapes, kimono collar, and Samurai-inspired pants. Not to mention the post-runway-show-selfie-backdrop-ready bamboo forest where the models came out to strutting down the runway. We were excited when we see his favourite models such as Hege Wollan (the show opener), Paula Verhoeven, Izabel Jahja, Laura Basuki and Nayla Alatas walked the runway in sky-high wedges on wooden floor with sleek Samurai chignon. White highlights adorned models’ eyelids and some of them wearing beautiful handmade Japanese-inspired necklaces made out of horns, feathers, shells, cowries, crystals and semi-precious stones.

Gorgeous sheer evening dresses with divine details closed the final sequence of the evening. If you look closely, you will appreciate the hard-work and craftsmanship from those who created the beautiful dresses. The magnificent embroideries and embellishments were superb! The juxtaposition of bright-light and dark-intense, pure and strong, feminine and masculine in Seruni collection were a total feast to the eye.

Read our review of his last year’s collection “The Radiance Postcard” and 2013 “Foliage” collection by clicking the links. Visit our Facebook page to view MORE runway images of “Seruni“.

Please do not reproduce the images without permission. Images must be accompanied by a working link to this post.

All images are courtesy of art8amby.

Hege Martine Wollan for dewi December 2013

One of the rising models in Indonesia (and a real sweetheart), Hege Martine Wollan, landed the December cover slot of dewi magazine. The young model posed in front of Hakim Satriyo‘s lens in Valentino Fall Winter 2013 that was styled by Aldi Indrajaya.

The MUA for the shoot was Adeline using Sisley Paris while Yongki from Irwan Team Hairdesign responsible for the hair do. (source)

Featured Article: Biyan Spring Summer 2014

Four huge “Garudas” placed strategically and majestically at the beginning of the runway, as a hint that for his latest collection, Biyan Wanaatmadja is taking inspiration from his homeland, Indonesia.

He used authentic Indonesian traditional textile and craft (batik, songket, tikar and basketry), as prints on light silk. He twisted the keraton inspired coats and jackets by adding his signature glamour touch in the use of intricate embroideries, beads and embellishments, which exudes the refined sophistication feeling. Some kebayas were modified in different silhouettes and volume, not to mentioned sarong inspired skirts. The juxtaposition between masculine and feminine were inevitable as some lace dresses were paired with cigarette pants. The use of delicate lace were interesting yet refreshing because Biyan usually used organza, tafetta, and tulle (which also appeared this time). Loose shapes is back on the runway, along with the effortless billowy sleeves.

Biyan doesn’t need bright and bold colors to celebrate his 30 radiant years in fashion. He mostly used down to earth and muted colors such as washed white, taupe grey, sogan brown, pumpkin brown and dusty pastels (chalk blue, celadon, peach, lilac tint, pale khaki). Even the lighting was sephia to make it more intimate yet serene. He also presented the ever lasting black and elegant midnight blue on the runway of his fashion show at Hotel Mulia Senayan on Wednesday, June 05th 2013.

Young model Hege Martine Wollan landed the honor to opened the show, while Paula Verhoeven closed. Some Indonesian runway veteran such as Laura Basuki, Izabel Jahja, and Wiwied also walked the show that night sporting similar neutral make up with sequined lids and sleek chignon like other models. He even casted supermodel Fahrani Pawaka Empel! What a lovely surprise for the excited guests.

“The Radiance Postcard” suits perfectly as the collection’s name because it reflects his creativity journey for the past three decades. He translated his memories diversity to this elegant yet modern collection with traditional twist. We are wishing Biyan all the very best for his upcoming collections and we are looking forward to see these dresses, coats and jackets on the displays of Bergdorf Goodman, Blake, Joyce, Club 21, Saks Fifth Avenue Dubai, and of course Net-A-Porter.

Read our review of his last year’s collection “Foliage” here, and click here to view MORE runway images of “The Radiance Postcard“.

Please do not reproduce the images without permission. Images must be accompanied by a working link to this post.

All images are courtesy of art8amby.

Featured Article: FOLIAGE by Biyan

One of Indonesia’s established fashion designers, Biyan Wanaatmadja, presented his 2012/2013 womenswear collection for his mainline, Biyan, earlier this month at the Grand Ballroom of Hotel Mulia Senayan, Jakarta, on Wednesday, June 06th 2012.

The 58 year old was longing for the luxury of enjoying the beauty of lush green leaves and a field filled with wildflowers. That’s what inspired him for the ninety gorgeous looks entitled FOLIAGE. He translated his imagination on the forms of comfortable, easy to wear, easy to mixed and match, yet powerful, stylish and elegant collection.

Before entering the venue that accommodates more than 1000 guests, he teased us with the gorgeous greeneries installation at the foyer that suits perfectly with the lovely Victorian conservatory house-themed runway backdrop. Kinda reminds us about that 1998 movie adapted from Charles Dickens novel, Great Expectations.

Other than black and gold, the color composition (tones of green leafs, celadon, sky blue, grey and geranium orange) reminds us about the green conservatorium/green house and floral scenery that is subtly nostalgic. We are loving the mix and match concept that harmonized and accentuate the femininity and subtle hint of masculine side of a woman such as shown in boxy jacket with wide skirt or palazzo pants and boxy blouson with svelte skirt.

This time, the designer who’s consistently held his annual fashion show every single year since 2002, goes different direction with loose relaxed fit, folkloric shirt dress, innocent peplum and dropped waist that’s combined with intricate details such as gorgeous floral beadworks, eyelet embroideries, exquisite Swarovski appliqués and ferns and leafs prints.

Biyan used various materials such as delicate french lace, tulle, silks, dots tulle, satin organza, woven raffia, crisp lurex taffeta, heavy crisp silk shantung, viscose gabardine and light cotton and combined it with wearable and covetable accessories: chunky necklace, beaded pouch and platform pump shoes (some of the shoes were decorated with beautiful crystals!).

Overall, those ninety looks from the designer whose his collection sold at Joyce (Hong Kong), Bergdorf Goodman (New York), Club 21 (Bangkok), Maria Luisa (Qatar) and Blake (Chicago) are very wearable yet delicately beautiful. It’s about time to see those dresses in real life worn by famous celebrities and featured in magazines (fashion editorials and socialites page) in the upcoming months.

Feel free to browse through our Facebook Fanpage for MORE images from the runway and guests.

Please do not reproduce the content from this posts in its entirety without permission. Images must be accompanied by a working link to this posts.

All images courtesy of art8amby.